Last month I was kindly invited to a pre-release luncheon for C. Donatiello Winery at the lovely Chaya Brasserie in Beverly Hills. Rarely one to turn down free wine or free food, I gladly accepted the invitation and waited for the big day.
Since I’m hyper-punctual (thanks, Mom!) I was the first one of the guests to arrive and I had an opportunity to spend some time with proprietor Christopher Donatiello. One of the things I love about the wine business is the willingness of the owners and winemakers to talk about their wines and themselves (even before they’re knocking ‘em back). Like a piece of art whose meaning is deepened by the artist’s story and message, the more you know about the people making the wine and where the wine comes from, the more you get from the experience of drinking it. Getting to know the story of the birth of the C. Donatiello Winery helped me experience the wines as if I secretly knew the wines’ hopes and dreams, in addition to what they were in the glass that day.
The focus for this winery was to be on single-lot wines made in a traditional “hands-off” style. I can’t always taste the way a wine is made, but I typically notice a “naked” wine where minimal winemaking has been applied and the fruit is allowed to speak for itself. I enjoyed this aspect of the C. Donatiello wines we tried.
Chris was also interested in making great Pinot Noir (who isn’t?). He wanted his Pinot to express a lighter style, and be more elegant than much of the super-cherry fruit-forward Pinot Noir we get from California.
I happen to be a big fan of Russian River Valley wines and typically when I purchase them I do so as a treat because they tend toward the over $30 mark and there’s too much good wine out there priced well below $30 to have the expensive stuff on a regular basis. If you’re looking to buy any of these wines, here’s a good place to start for C. Donatiello Winery, and here for Healdsburg Ranches.
The Chardonnays
The first wine poured for us was the 2007 Russian River Valley Chardonnay (release price $24 per bottle). I always feel bad for the first wine that gets poured because my palate and nose are hyper-sensitive to alcohol until I’ve had a few sips. I suppose that’s why they started us with their “lesser” Chardonnay (not single-vineyard). This wine contains fruit sourced from two vineyards: Orsi Vineyard and Maddie’s Vineyard. Maddie’s estate-grown contribution made all the difference in this wine.
What they said:
Nose: Lemon curd and apricot, with a bit of clove and just a hint of wet wool. Don’t be surprised if you also detect an ever so faint whiff of vanilla cookies.
Palate: Layers of spiced apple, honey, and nutmeg reveal seamlessly on a tight frame to give way to the long, luscious chamomile-tinged finish.
What Jess says:
After trying all of the wines, this was the one I came back to and wanted more of. I was particularly impressed with the balance of this Chardonnay, a feat indeed since so many Chardonnays lean oaky or buttery or alcoholic or fruity… this just expressed itself as fine fruit made in a fine style. I find the $24 release price to be a good value, especially if you can find it a retailer for less.
Side note: I smelled honey on the nose. I often can’t tell the difference between honey and apricot on the nose (or on the palate) until it’s pointed out. I was able to detect the spice (though it was super mild) and I detected “herbal” where they say the “chamomile” ought to be. But then again, my descriptions tend toward the general rather than the specific.
Next up was the 2007 Chardonnay, Orsi Vineyard (release price $30 per bottle). This single-vineyard wine, in my opinion, didn’t enjoy the balance of the Russian River Valley Chardonnay. It was brighter and fruitier (popular characteristics in Chardonnay, just not my preference).
What they said:
Nose: Aromas of baking spices, pannetone and toasted pineapple, exquisitely accented by a faint hint of lemon.
Palate: Decadently lush with flavors of caramel candied apple, key lime, lemon, and grapefruit. A round, full mouth feel develops effortlessly into a medium to long finish.
What Jess says:
I have no idea what pannetone tastes/smells like. And toasted pineapple isn’t exactly familiar to me either (though I smelled what I referred to as “tweaky pineapple.” But I sure did smell and taste that lemon! I found this wine to be enjoyable and unique, but since fruity isn’t my favorite, I didn’t find $30 to be an attractive price.
Later on, we tried some of the wines from different labels that are part of the Hambrecht Wine Group. A value highlight for me was the 2009 Healdsburg Ranches Russian River Valley Chardonnay (release price $14.99 per bottle).
What they said:
Nose: Stone fruit, honey dew melon, apricot, golden delicious apple
Palate: Apricot, toffee, nutmeg, white peach, nectarine
What Jess says:
This was a great Chardonnay in this price range. I would happily sip on this on warm summer days or nights, accompanied by some form of food since the acid tended to build up a little in my mouth as I drank it. I detected a brightness and some non-specific form of “fruit” on the nose. Well-balanced for a $15 Chardonnay (only a little acidic), I detected notes of apricot, citrus, pear, and little hint of malolactic fermentation that didn’t annoy me as buttery (considering this wine’s fermentation was 100% malolactic, that’s saying something).
The Pinot Noirs
I’m not one who goes gaga over Pinot Noirs, but when I do, they tend to originate from the Russian River Valley (and sometimes elsewhere in Sonoma County). So please take all of the following comments with the perspective that I’m not really a Pinot Noir afficionado… I think it’s because Pinot Noir is one of the most difficult wines to produce and so very few wineries have truly figured it out.
First up in the Pinot department was the 2007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir (release price $38 per bottle).
What they said:
Nose: A vibrant burst of Morello cherry, Santa Rosa plum, cranberry and muddle raspberries, braced by notes of grey pepper and mocha.
Palate: Luscious and fruity, with perfectly-balanced flavors of cherry, strawberry, and cola. The brightness of the fruit is elegantly framed by structured tannins.
What Jess says:
I found the nose to be bright, bold with cherry (though again, I don’t know what a Morello cherry smells/tastes like) and a bit peppery. To me the palate was musty and structured up front but I found wateriness in the mid-palate right where the party is supposed to start. This Pinot had an earthy quality that really didn’t resonate with me. Maybe it was my brussel sprouts that ruined it? (Though that Pasta Primavera dish they served was out of this world.)
Also served was the 2008 Pinot Noir, Floodgate Vineyard, Block 15 (release price $48 per bottle). When a label starts getting THAT specific I have an expectation that this wine is going to be very unique and special. I didn’t have that experience. I have to wonder how much the record-breaking weather affected this particular vintage and would be interested to try a bottle from a year when the weather conditions were within normal range.
What they said:
Nose: The floral essence of rose petal meets the earthy aroma of forest floor, with jammy notes of cranberry and blackberry.
Palate: Opposite of showy, with reserved flavors of cherry and wet stone balanced subtly and beautifully by a tactile, full mouthfeel.
What Jess says:
The nose was mellower than the previous Pinot Noir (that’s a good thing for me… sometimes when a wine has a strong nose it, by contrast, falls apart on the palate). I definitely was aware of “forest floor.” The palate expressed deep layers of flavor, was very balanced, felt restrained, and was supported by light, supple tannins. This was a very well-made wine, but at $48 and with my preferences, I’d probably spend my money elsewhere (like a Suacci-Carciere Pinot Noir also from the Russian River Valley).
Side note: C. Donatiello Winery takes the time to point out that this Pinot Noir contains grapes from Dijon Clones 667 and 777. Until I started studying plants, this seemed like a rather pedantic thing to talk about (especially since the rest of the plant-growing community refers to “clones” as cultivars and varieties). But since I study wine and plants with the same level of voracity, I thought I’d see who else is using these clones… if you like any of these wines, you might very well enjoy this Pinot Noir:
Clone: 667
- Melville (not sure which vineyards have this clone)
- Cambria Clone 667
- Alma Rosa (La Encantada Vineyard)
- Foley (Santa Rita Hills)
- La Rochelle (Sleepy Hollow Vineyard)
Clone: 777
- Melville (not sure which vineyards have this clone)
- Aston Estate
- Brewer-Clifton
- Windsor Oaks Vineyards
- Lafond Winery & Vineyards
One last Pinot Noir was served that day, the 2009 Healdsburg Ranches Russian River Valley Pinot Noir (release price $18.99 per bottle).
What they said:
Nose: Aromas of plum, cranberry, cherry, golden raspberry, and spices
Palate: Flavors of strawberry, bing cherry, spice, baked rhubarb
What Jess says:
Oy. I don’t agree with those tasting notes. I tasted toasty chocolate, not a lot of cherry expected from a Pinot Noir at all, and a touch of spice. Slightly acidic. Good Pinot under $13 is the holy grail of the value wine drinker. Good Pinot under $25 per bottle is rare enough that one should be impressed by such a feat. For me, this one falls under the general description of “nice Pinot Noir under $25.” For the same price I’d take the Clos du Bois Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir over this one though.
They also poured for us two wines from the Bradford Mountain label. The 2006 Grist Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel and Syrah (release price $33 for each). I didn’t find either of these wines to be exciting for their varietal, or for Dry Creek Valley. I’d skip ‘em altogether if you find ‘em at the store.
The Winery
Typically when I do an elaborate tasting review such as this one, it’s because I’ve visited the winery on a tasting trip. That’s not the case but there are few special things about this winery that makes me hope I get there before too long.
The Aroma / Sensory Garden
Sensory & Aroma Garden at C. Donatiello Winery
C. Donatiello Winery has on premises an elaborate aroma garden where each plant has been chosen to reflect the wines they’re making. There is a 60-species rose garden, a perennial garden in the English style, and herbs are planted between the two. Sounds AWESOME.
New Wine & Cheese Pairing program launching June 5, 2010
We are introducing a new wine and cheese pairing program. Over the course of the remainder of the year, the winery will focus on three local Sonoma County creameries, pairing four select cheeses with a flight of four carefully selected single-vineyard estate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. Each cheese plate is adorned with locally produced accoutrements and fresh cuttings from the winery’s organic Aroma Garden to further enhance the tasting experience. Reservations are required, so please allow us 24-hour notice.
Food & Wine Classic in Aspen June 18-20, 2010
Food & Wine magazine’s signature event brings together the world’s foremost authorities on food and wine. Chris has the distinct honor of participating in a panel discussion this year. Food & Wine Magazine’s Wine Editor Ray Isle has invited him to speak on “The Power of Points.” He will also be in attendance with the Russian River Valley Winegrowers Association, so if you’re attending, be sure to stop by his booth in the tasting tent.
“Live from the Middle Reach” Summer Music Series, July 4 -October 3, 2010
The series will lead with the popular local Sonoma County group the Hellhounds, who have been a staple in kicking off the concert series on 4th of July weekend since its inception. A total of 13 bands will be featured throughout the summer and early fall, including returning favorites and fresh new acts. The full list of music acts can be found on the Events page of their website.
