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Two Rhones Make a Right

Being a resident of Washington state, I have the opportunity to try some of the best wines that the state has to offer.  One winery that I am super excited about right now is Syncline Winery.  Syncline, (a trough of stratified rock in which the beds dip toward each other from either side) embodies it’s name.  Located in Lyle, Washington, (Columbia Gorge AVA), Winemaker James Mantone was inspired by what other Washington winemakers had done with traditional Rhone and Burgundian varietals.  Having worked at LaVelle Vineyards prior to starting Syncline, James had a soft spot for Pinot Noir, thus the first vintage of Syncline was a small production of Pinot Noir from Celilo Vineyard.  After expanding production the following year to include Grenache and Syrah, James began working with vineyards to plant Viognier, Mourvedre, Roussanne, Cinsault, Counoise and Carignan.

James’ love and curiosity for Rhone varietals has come full circle.  One wine that I really enjoy is his Subduction Red.  Subduction is a blend of Mourvedre (39%), Counoise (19%), Syrah (17%), Grenache (16%), Cinsault (6%) and Carignan (3%).  This is a lot of wine for it’s price ($18).  Subduction red has a beautiful, dark ruby color at the core with light purple hues around the edge.  The aromas of this wine are great: boysenberry, blackberry, toasted hazelnut, slight gaminess and a hint of birch.  For a wine to have this many different varietals, it’s easy to balance or structure, but this is not the case with the Subduction.  The palate has an initial burst of ripe red raspberries and black cherries with nice, stoney acidity.  The mid palate is soft and opens up to flavors of plum, white cocoa, cotton candy and bit of white pepper.  The wine has nice structure with good acidity and velvety tannins, most of which come from the French oak barrels that the wine is aged in.  The finish lasts for days, again with supple tannins, plum and ripe raspberry.

In a market where the average price for a bottle of wine is $32, the Syncline Subduction Red is a great wine from Washington state that fits within any budget.  Definitely check it out as well as some of James’ other wines; you won’t be disappointed!             – Chip McLaughlin

Venture up this creek

And for the price – approximately $12/bottle – imbibers get a great table wine at a great value.

A Collaboration

If you happen to live in Southern California, and you find yourself in a Whole Foods, you have an opportunity to purchase wine as part of an effort to celebrate a partnership between Whole Foods Market and Santa Barbara County wineries. My assumption, though it’s not called out anywhere, is that this is a “Buy local” program.

The project is called “A Collaboration” and is currently a partnership between Whole Foods and (at press time) two well-known wineries: Margerum Wines and Hitching Post Wines. The first wine, from Margerum, was available on September 30th and I acquired a bottle for free through a P.R. firm representing the effort (I have to tell you that, but I would have anyway).

The 2009 A Collaboration with Margerum label contains backstory which is remarkably similar to Margerum’s well-known M5 (and even goes so far as to say M5 Red Wine right on the label):

Five Grapes ~ Six Vineyards ~ One Wine
51% Syrah (53% Colson Canyon Vineyard clone 877, 37% Great Oak Ranch Vineyard and 10% Purisima Mountain Vineyard that was pulled from a new Francoise Freres barrel), 32% Grenache (58% Alamo Creek Vineyard and 42% Grundoon Vineyards), 11% Mourvedre from Camp Four Vineyard, 3% Counoise from Camp Four Vineyard and 3% Cinsault from Camp Four Vineyard.

For me, this wine has amazing “bones” but seems to be lacking in a serious case of “living up to its potential.” Then again, I kinda felt that way about M5, too. As a general rule, I favor fruitier red wines to minerally red wines, and am especially not enamored with Napa Cabernets because of that dusty, chalky thing everyone loves so much. To me, the Margerum wines seem to be reaching for Napa (and falling short) instead of embracing what makes wine from Santa Barbara County and the rest of the Central Coast so unique and enjoyable… the fruit. I consider the other wines coming out of these vineyards, made from the same grapes (Tensley, Qupe, Tercero, Epiphany, and Beckmen come to mind), and I’m disappointed in the lack of body, the lack of anything interesting happening on my mid-palate, and the short finish.

The Hitching Post collaboration is a completely different animal. All of the things that we love about Santa Ynez wine and winemaking are typified in this bottle of wine and it was an exciting bottle to drink. The label is chock-full of information (yay!) to help the consumer get a better sense of what’s special about this wine:

This collaboration celebrates:
A Place – Terravant Wine Company in Buellton, CA, where Gray Hartley and Frank Ostini of Hitching Post Wines are writing the next chapter.
A Story – of making wine since 1979, in a garage, a shed, a co-op, and now this ultra-modern winery. From humble beginnings to high tech, Hartley Ostini continues to created traditional wines of balance and finesse.
The Fruits – This is a 22 barrel selection blended and handcrafted by Gray Hartley and Frank Ostini, and includes 73% Valdiguie grown by Hank Ashby at French Camp Vineyard near Shandon, and 27% Syrah grown by Loren Colahan at Alisos Vineyard in the hills above Los Alamos.

My husband says to me, “What’s Valdiguie?” My reply? “I think it’s an Italian varietal.” Yeah, um, notsomuch. It’s actually a French varietal from the Languedoc-Roussillon region in Provence. When we opened the bottle, poured the glasses, and took a deep analytical inhalation, we were impressed with the textured, deep fruity aroma. What surprised and impressed us even more was the less-fruity palate as well as the incredible balance and structure of this wine. We like many Hitching Post wines, but for me, this is one of their finest “collaborations.”

The Hitching Post collaboration will be available on November 1st at a Whole Foods near you (in Southern California) for the VERY low introductory price of $12.99 (will go up to $14.99 after December). This is a wine to stock up on if you can as it will make your wintry evenings ohsomuch better.

Hi there! Remember me? This summer was beyond the pale with too many balls in the air but I’m back! Since blogging had been set aside for a while, so had drinking all of the lovely wines I’d received over the last several months. I’ve been slowly working my way through the several cases of wine that had built up, with the help of my friends, and now I want to share with you what I’ve tasted and recommend (and what I don’t recommend). Enjoy!

Recommended Wines Under $15 – Courtesy of Gourmet Monthly Wine Clubs (Masters Series)

• Stefano Massone Vigneto Masera Gavi 2008 – Italy – $10-12 per bottle (No longer available for reorder at Gourmet Monthly)
• Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2006 – France – $8-11 per bottle (No longer available for reorder at Gourmet Monthly)
• FAVORITE! Nine Vines South Australia Viognier 2008 – Australia – $11-12 per bottle (No longer available for reorder at Gourmet Monthly)

Recommended Wines Under $20 – Courtesy of Gold Medal Wine Club (Gold Series)

• Three Saints Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 – Santa Ynez – (Release price: $23, Published price: $19, Member price: $17)
• Adobe Road Winery Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 – (Release price: $45, Published price: $29, Member price: $20)
• Adobe Road Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2007 – Already sold out at Gold Medal Wine Club (it was delicious), $15-20 per bottle

More Recommended Wines – Courtesy of Zagat Wine Club and Barclay’s Wine Experience

• Le Petit Pauvre Chardonnay 2007 – Monterey County, California – $17 per bottle
• Granite Ridge Chenin Blanc 2009 – Stellenbosch, South Africa – $12.95 per bottle
• Ines de Monclus White 2009 – Andalusia, Spain – $12.95 per bottle

Some Not-So-Recommended Wines

• Home Grown Farms Family Harvest Red 2008 (California)
• Rosenthal The Malibu Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
• Monasterio de Santa Cruz 2007 (Monastrell from Tarragona)
• Chateau les Tuileries 2009 (Bordeaux)
• Carolena Merlot 2007 (California)

In case you didn’t know, I also review wine clubs. We comb through retail wines to make wine club recommendations and soon we’ll have new ways for you to find the perfect wine club for you or as a gift!

Cheers!

The Rhône wine region is an AOC (Appellation d’origine controlee) in Southern France, probably best known in the US as the homeland of Châteauneuf-du-Pape—a popular wine that can contain as many as 18 different grape varietals (even white).

Not satisfied with letting the French have all the fun, in the 1980’s a group of winemakers from California’s Central Coast – John Alban (Alban Vineyards), Bob Lindquist (Qupe) and Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon Vineyards) – began planting Rhône varietals like Syrah, Grenache and Viognier. The vines took hold—and so did marketing efforts—and the Rhone Rangers was born, keeping Americans safe from the threat of drinking something boring.

Today, the Rhone Rangers include almost 200 member wineries, producing wine from any of the 22 different grapes sanctioned by the AOC for Rhône juice. Some wines are single variety, some are blends—and many can be tasted at Rhone Rangers tasting events, like the one which took place on Sunday, August 8, at Pier 59 Studios West, in Santa Monica.

Those who saddled up and trekked over had the chance to taste Marsanne-Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvedre and others, from the likes of Cline Cellars, Tablas Creek Vineyard (which is an offshoot of the actual Rhône winery Chateau Beaucastel), Koehler Winery, Edward Sellers Vineyards & Wines, Qupe, Justin Winery and more. Schaffer’s Genuine Catering provided food for the day. When the event ended at 5, many of the wineries headed to Pourtal wine bar, where they poured their wines for kemo sabes old and new before riding off into the sunset.

If you missed the tasting but want to scout out these delicious juices [Ed note: Rhône varietals tend to be Jess and my favorites], many of them are surprisingly affordable and – like Grenache, in particular – are starting to gain in popularity. I’ve even seen some in the grocery store! Then, of course, there is always next year’s Rhone Rangers tasting…

Rhone Rangers Hi-Ho

Si, white gazpacho. See?

If you thumb through any magazine or surf most of the food/entertaining websites, you’ll find one idea after another for backyard barbeques and refreshing summer salads. But I have my own suggestion about something cool to cook this season: White gazpacho.

No doubt you’ve met white gazpacho’s scarlet cousin, red gazpacho. A cold, tomato-centered soup often brimming with summer vegetables. White gazpacho (ajo blanco) is equally refreshing but otherwise completely opposite. With a base of marcona almonds, white gazpacho is milkier, silkier and richer than red gazpacho. It’s also my favorite of the two.

For instructions on how to whip this soup together, I checked in with my friend Erika Kerekes of InErikasKitchen. This is her original recipe:

Green grapes and almonds in a cold, savory soup? Actually, yes. Don’t worry about getting the measurements below exactly right; they’re meant to suggest proportions. A little more or less won’t make a difference.

• 1 cup baguette or similar white bread, stale or lightly toasted
• 1/4 cup water
• Splash of rosé wine [ed: Preferably 2008 A Donkey and Goat Grenache Rosé. Really. Try it]
• 1/2 cup roasted Marcona almonds
• 1/2 cup green grapes
• 1/2 cucumber, peeled and seeded, cut into chunks
• 1/4 cup olive oil (or more)
• salt
• ground white pepper

Put the bread and water in the container of a blender and let soak 5 minutes. Add all other ingredients and blend on high until smooth and creamy. If necessary, add more olive oil to get the right consistency; the gazpacho should be thin but not runny, about the consistency of buttermilk. Season with salt and ground white pepper to taste. Chill at least 1 hour before serving.

Vina Tobia Blanco – white from “red”

And what to pair? Something Spanish, of course! Or, to sound more professional about it: If it grows together, it goes together.

Lately I’ve been enjoying a lovely 2009 white Rioja from Vina Tobia. If you remember from my last Rioja piece, the designation Rioja comes from the color of the region’s soil. White Rioja simply means a white wine from this red-tinted region.

Vina Tobia Rioja Blanco is comprised of 80% viura (macabeo) and 20% malvasia grapes. In the glass it presents a lovely nose of white flowers and peach and honeysuckle. In the mouth, this wine is crisp and nicely balanced and bursting with melon, mango and ripe peaches, with subtle notes of mineral, citrus and the faintest touch of raspberry.

¡Muy exquisito!

What happened to Day 2? Well, I was too drunk to write about it yesterday, so you’ll get THAT update later

We’re in the middle of Day 3 (it’s the first official day of the conference) and it’s quite a trip being around so many wine drinkers, wine lovers, and wine writers in one place. The wine community in Washington is super-friendly and it’s been a thrill to get to know the different regions and wineries.

It’s also been fun to meet all kinds of people who I’ve known online for different reasons… including accidentally meeting Steve Heimoff while chatting at the Meritage Alliance table.

We’re listening to the kick-off speech right now, and so I’m taking this opportunity to point out some of my favorite values and wines I’ve had so far:

• Barnard Griffin Fume Blanc, $9
• Barnard Griffin Sangiovese Rose, $12
• Milbrandt Merlot Traditions, $15
• Milbrandt Riesling, $13
• Chinook Semillon, $15
• McCrea Grenache Blanc, Boushey Vineyard, ~$20

I also liked the Gruner Veltiners I tasted today. I think they need to go on my list of alternative whites (as I’m kinda getting tired of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc).

More to come, and cheers!

Bienvenidos a La Rioja

Rioja. Even the name sounds infused with notes of passion and the warmth of exotic, Spanish summer nights.

Named after the Autonomous Community of La Rioja, the area is a Denominación de Origen Calificada (D.O.C. qualified designation of origin), and records indicate that grapes have been grown in this region since the 9^th Century. The red-soiled area is divided into three separate sections, (Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Baja), each producing different styles of wine, based on the location where the grapes are grown (Alta – highest altitude; Alavesa – similar in climate to Alta but lacking the better soil conditions of the more elevated area; and Baja – a Mediterranean climate producing wine with lower acidity and up to 18% alcohol (this region tends to produce a high number of blending wines)). The majority of juice produced from the region is red (Tinto), with the remaining 15% consisting of white (Blanco) and rosé (Rosado).

According to Wikipedia:

Among the Tintos, the best-known and most widely-used variety is Tempranillo. Other grapes used include Garnacha Tinta, Graciano and Mazuelo. A typical blend will consist of approximately 60% Tempranillo and up to 20% Garnacha, with much smaller proportions of Mazuelo and Graciano. Each grape adds a unique component to the wine with Tempranillo contributing the main flavors and aging potential to the wine; Garnacha adding body and alcohol; Mazuelo adding seasoning flavors and Graciano adding additional aromas.

Among the region’s white wines, the most prominent varietal is Viura (also known as Macabeo), and contains blends of a little Malvasía and a little Garnacha Blanca. Rosado from Rioja is traditionally made from Garnacha grapes.

La Rioja

Rioja wines are divided into four classifications: The most basic is simply called Rioja. This wine is the region’s “entry-level” classification, can be fermented from any of the area’s allowed varietals, and has spent under a year aged in oak barrels. The next level is called Crianza. Crianza has been aged for a minimum of two years – one of those years must be in oak. After that is the Reserva classification, given to wines aged in oak for at least one year, with three years or more total aging. The fourth and most esteemed level of Rioja classification is called Gran Reserva¸ which describes a wine that has been aged in oak for two or more years and in bottle for three or more. Despite the minimum aging requirements, however, some of the more celebrated Rioja wineries to hold onto their wines for 10, 15, 20 or so years, until they are determined to be at their peak drinkability, and not released before that time. Due to this “library-style” release – plus varietals used, etc. – it is not uncommon to see many Rioja wines priced similarly to the best French Bordeaux bottles. But this is not to say there aren’t excellent deals to be found from the D.O.C.

Ironically, one of the value wineries I discovered was the same one that Jess wrote about at the very start of this blog. Viña Santurnia produces their wines en la propiedad – on the property – in the Alta district of Rioja. All of their wines are priced very well, and for comparison I decided to try three from their production: 2006 Crianza ($10.99 retail), 2004 Reserva ($14.99 retail) and 2001 Gran Reserva ($26.99).

Tres vinos de Rioja

What works about this project is that I’m tasting three levels of a producer’s wine, reporting back on what I liked and why. The intention is to illustrate what happens at each of the price points. What does not work about this project is that the winemaker uses different blends for each classification, and the three wines I tasted all came from different vintages.

The 2006 Crianza, aged for 12 months in American oak barrels, is made from 100% Tempranillo grapes. When I smelled it in the glass, my immediate impression was “pepper, with notes of litter box.” There was some fruit hiding in there somewhere, but – true to the Old World style – this wine was pure Barnyard Spice. Perhaps surprisingly, that’s considered a good thing when you’re talking about traditional Rioja. There was great balance to this spicy/peppery/dusty/earthy wine. Although it is made in the classic style, I found it to taste a little more like modern, New World wines than I expected; this is not a judgment, just an observation. For $11, I was pleased as can be.

The 2004 Reserva is crafted from a blend of Tempranillo, Mazuelo and Graciano and was American oak-aged 24 months before being bottled in September 2007. At $15, this was actually my least favorite of the three. Totally cherry-vanilla, it was jammier and more wood-sweet (likely due to more time in oak) than the Crianza. The balance was lovely and managed to align acid, tannin and fruit, but seemed overwhelmingly “New Worldy,” before disappearing with a short, dry, peppery finish. I was hoping for a little more depth and complexity for my $4 extra. I voted this wine “most likely to go bad before I get back to drinking it.”

2001 Vina Santurnia Gran Reserva

The 2001 Gran Reserva was an entirely different wine altogether. Cherries, asparagus and white pepper on the nose. Much more reserved on the palate than the other two – the entire experience was of a more sophisticated, more mature, more complex wine. Smooth, a little spicy, with flavors that unfolded gently in a controlled, delicate expression. The Gran Reserva is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. The percentage of Graciano – in addition, of course, to being an older vintage – might be one of the contributing factors in the wine’s higher sticker price. Graciano is a harder grape to grow, and produces the lowest yields of any of the other Rioja varietals. Whatever the reason, the Gran Reserva was in a class all its own. It also recently scored 90 points from Wine Spectator.

Everything about wine is a personal decision, from the flavors one prefers to the price they’re willing to spend. This blog is only a catalog of what Jess and I have tried, usually with a focus on bang for the buck. I really enjoyed the Viña Santurnia Crianza, I also really enjoyed the Gran Reserva. In the spirit of sultry, Spanish adventures, go with your own wine passion on this one. When one follows their heart, they are certain to drink more deeply from what life has to offer. And whatever it is that you choose, salud!

We’re all about value over here… sometimes that means buying cheap wine that will surprise you, sometimes that means buying mid-priced wine that tastes expensive, and sometimes (today will be one of those times) it means buying mid-priced, expensive-tasting wine so cheap you won’t believe your eyes.

Have you met Opolo? I have! I’ve been to their winery and came home with a bottle of this stuff (among others). I liked Opolo so much I also went to a winemaker dinner here in town so I could have some more without the drive to Paso Robles!

Today, while scouring the web for great deals, I came across this one and said… BINGO! So if you like balanced, well-made California fruit-forward red wines you can have a bingo, too!

2005 Opolo Fusion (49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Syrah, 2% Petite Verdot) from Paso Robles.
Release price: $37.50. Sale price: $21.99. There’s a “member-only” price, too.

Trust me, if you’re thinking about this wine, register for an account so you can see the low low price they’re offering to their registered shoppers.

GET IT HERE

Last month I was kindly invited to a pre-release luncheon for C. Donatiello Winery at the lovely Chaya Brasserie in Beverly Hills. Rarely one to turn down free wine or free food, I gladly accepted the invitation and waited for the big day.

Since I’m hyper-punctual (thanks, Mom!) I was the first one of the guests to arrive and I had an opportunity to spend some time with proprietor Christopher Donatiello. One of the things I love about the wine business is the willingness of the owners and winemakers to talk about their wines and themselves (even before they’re knocking ‘em back). Like a piece of art whose meaning is deepened by the artist’s story and message, the more you know about the people making the wine and where the wine comes from, the more you get from the experience of drinking it. Getting to know the story of the birth of the C. Donatiello Winery helped me experience the wines as if I secretly knew the wines’ hopes and dreams, in addition to what they were in the glass that day.

The focus for this winery was to be on single-lot wines made in a traditional “hands-off” style. I can’t always taste the way a wine is made, but I typically notice a “naked” wine where minimal winemaking has been applied and the fruit is allowed to speak for itself. I enjoyed this aspect of the C. Donatiello wines we tried.

Chris was also interested in making great Pinot Noir (who isn’t?). He wanted his Pinot to express a lighter style, and be more elegant than much of the super-cherry fruit-forward Pinot Noir we get from California.

I happen to be a big fan of Russian River Valley wines and typically when I purchase them I do so as a treat because they tend toward the over $30 mark and there’s too much good wine out there priced well below $30 to have the expensive stuff on a regular basis. If you’re looking to buy any of these wines, here’s a good place to start for C. Donatiello Winery, and here for Healdsburg Ranches.

The Chardonnays

The first wine poured for us was the 2007 Russian River Valley Chardonnay (release price $24 per bottle). I always feel bad for the first wine that gets poured because my palate and nose are hyper-sensitive to alcohol until I’ve had a few sips. I suppose that’s why they started us with their “lesser” Chardonnay (not single-vineyard). This wine contains fruit sourced from two vineyards: Orsi Vineyard and Maddie’s Vineyard. Maddie’s estate-grown contribution made all the difference in this wine.

What they said:

Nose: Lemon curd and apricot, with a bit of clove and just a hint of wet wool. Don’t be surprised if you also detect an ever so faint whiff of vanilla cookies.

Palate: Layers of spiced apple, honey, and nutmeg reveal seamlessly on a tight frame to give way to the long, luscious chamomile-tinged finish.

What Jess says:

After trying all of the wines, this was the one I came back to and wanted more of. I was particularly impressed with the balance of this Chardonnay, a feat indeed since so many Chardonnays lean oaky or buttery or alcoholic or fruity… this just expressed itself as fine fruit made in a fine style. I find the $24 release price to be a good value, especially if you can find it a retailer for less.

Side note: I smelled honey on the nose. I often can’t tell the difference between honey and apricot on the nose (or on the palate) until it’s pointed out. I was able to detect the spice (though it was super mild) and I detected “herbal” where they say the “chamomile” ought to be. But then again, my descriptions tend toward the general rather than the specific.

Next up was the 2007 Chardonnay, Orsi Vineyard (release price $30 per bottle). This single-vineyard wine, in my opinion, didn’t enjoy the balance of the Russian River Valley Chardonnay. It was brighter and fruitier (popular characteristics in Chardonnay, just not my preference).

What they said:

Nose: Aromas of baking spices, pannetone and toasted pineapple, exquisitely accented by a faint hint of lemon.

Palate: Decadently lush with flavors of caramel candied apple, key lime, lemon, and grapefruit. A round, full mouth feel develops effortlessly into a medium to long finish.

What Jess says:

I have no idea what pannetone tastes/smells like. And toasted pineapple isn’t exactly familiar to me either (though I smelled what I referred to as “tweaky pineapple.” But I sure did smell and taste that lemon! I found this wine to be enjoyable and unique, but since fruity isn’t my favorite, I didn’t find $30 to be an attractive price.

Later on, we tried some of the wines from different labels that are part of the Hambrecht Wine Group. A value highlight for me was the 2009 Healdsburg Ranches Russian River Valley Chardonnay (release price $14.99 per bottle).

What they said:

Nose: Stone fruit, honey dew melon, apricot, golden delicious apple

Palate: Apricot, toffee, nutmeg, white peach, nectarine

What Jess says:

This was a great Chardonnay in this price range. I would happily sip on this on warm summer days or nights, accompanied by some form of food since the acid tended to build up a little in my mouth as I drank it. I detected a brightness and some non-specific form of “fruit” on the nose. Well-balanced for a $15 Chardonnay (only a little acidic), I detected notes of apricot, citrus, pear, and little hint of malolactic fermentation that didn’t annoy me as buttery (considering this wine’s fermentation was 100% malolactic, that’s saying something).

The Pinot Noirs

I’m not one who goes gaga over Pinot Noirs, but when I do, they tend to originate from the Russian River Valley (and sometimes elsewhere in Sonoma County). So please take all of the following comments with the perspective that I’m not really a Pinot Noir afficionado… I think it’s because Pinot Noir is one of the most difficult wines to produce and so very few wineries have truly figured it out.

First up in the Pinot department was the 2007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir (release price $38 per bottle).

What they said:

Nose: A vibrant burst of Morello cherry, Santa Rosa plum, cranberry and muddle raspberries, braced by notes of grey pepper and mocha.

Palate: Luscious and fruity, with perfectly-balanced flavors of cherry, strawberry, and cola. The brightness of the fruit is elegantly framed by structured tannins.

What Jess says:

I found the nose to be bright, bold with cherry (though again, I don’t know what a Morello cherry smells/tastes like) and a bit peppery. To me the palate was musty and structured up front but I found wateriness in the mid-palate right where the party is supposed to start. This Pinot had an earthy quality that really didn’t resonate with me. Maybe it was my brussel sprouts that ruined it? (Though that Pasta Primavera dish they served was out of this world.)

Also served was the 2008 Pinot Noir, Floodgate Vineyard, Block 15 (release price $48 per bottle). When a label starts getting THAT specific I have an expectation that this wine is going to be very unique and special. I didn’t have that experience. I have to wonder how much the record-breaking weather affected this particular vintage and would be interested to try a bottle from a year when the weather conditions were within normal range.

What they said:

Nose: The floral essence of rose petal meets the earthy aroma of forest floor, with jammy notes of cranberry and blackberry.

Palate: Opposite of showy, with reserved flavors of cherry and wet stone balanced subtly and beautifully by a tactile, full mouthfeel.

What Jess says:

The nose was mellower than the previous Pinot Noir (that’s a good thing for me… sometimes when a wine has a strong nose it, by contrast, falls apart on the palate). I definitely was aware of “forest floor.” The palate expressed deep layers of flavor, was very balanced, felt restrained, and was supported by light, supple tannins. This was a very well-made wine, but at $48 and with my preferences, I’d probably spend my money elsewhere (like a Suacci-Carciere Pinot Noir also from the Russian River Valley).

Side note: C. Donatiello Winery takes the time to point out that this Pinot Noir contains grapes from Dijon Clones 667 and 777. Until I started studying plants, this seemed like a rather pedantic thing to talk about (especially since the rest of the plant-growing community refers to “clones” as cultivars and varieties).  But since I study wine and plants with the same level of voracity, I thought I’d see who else is using these clones… if you like any of these wines, you might very well enjoy this Pinot Noir:

Clone: 667

• Melville (not sure which vineyards have this clone)
  
• Cambria Clone 667
  
• Alma Rosa (La Encantada Vineyard)
• Foley (Santa Rita Hills)
  
• La Rochelle (Sleepy Hollow Vineyard)

Clone: 777

• Melville (not sure which vineyards have this clone)
• Aston Estate
• Brewer-Clifton
• Windsor Oaks Vineyards
• Lafond Winery & Vineyards

One last Pinot Noir was served that day, the 2009 Healdsburg Ranches Russian River Valley Pinot Noir (release price $18.99 per bottle).

What they said:

Nose: Aromas of plum, cranberry, cherry, golden raspberry, and spices

Palate: Flavors of strawberry, bing cherry, spice, baked rhubarb

What Jess says:

Oy. I don’t agree with those tasting notes. I tasted toasty chocolate, not a lot of cherry expected from a Pinot Noir at all, and a touch of spice. Slightly acidic. Good Pinot under $13 is the holy grail of the value wine drinker. Good Pinot under $25 per bottle is rare enough that one should be impressed by such a feat. For me, this one falls under the general description of “nice Pinot Noir under $25.” For the same price I’d take the Clos du Bois Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir over this one though.

They also poured for us two wines from the Bradford Mountain label. The 2006 Grist Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel and Syrah (release price $33 for each). I didn’t find either of these wines to be exciting for their varietal, or for Dry Creek Valley. I’d skip ‘em altogether if you find ‘em at the store.

The Winery

Typically when I do an elaborate tasting review such as this one, it’s because I’ve visited the winery on a tasting trip. That’s not the case but there are few special things about this winery that makes me hope I get there before too long.

The Aroma / Sensory Garden

Sensory & Aroma Garden at C. Donatiello Winery

C. Donatiello Winery has on premises an elaborate aroma garden where each plant has been chosen to reflect the wines they’re making. There is a 60-species rose garden, a perennial garden in the English style, and herbs are planted between the two. Sounds AWESOME.

New Wine & Cheese Pairing program launching June 5, 2010

We are introducing a new wine and cheese pairing program. Over the course of the remainder of the year, the winery will focus on three local Sonoma County creameries, pairing four select cheeses with a flight of four carefully selected single-vineyard estate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs.  Each cheese plate is adorned with locally produced accoutrements and fresh cuttings from the winery’s organic Aroma Garden to further enhance the tasting experience. Reservations are required, so please allow us 24-hour notice.

Food & Wine Classic in Aspen June 18-20, 2010

Food & Wine magazine’s signature event brings together the world’s foremost authorities on food and wine. Chris has the distinct honor of participating in a panel discussion this year.  Food & Wine Magazine’s Wine Editor Ray Isle has invited him to speak on “The Power of Points.”  He will also be in attendance with the Russian River Valley Winegrowers Association, so if you’re attending, be sure to stop by his booth in the tasting tent.

“Live from the Middle Reach” Summer Music Series, July 4 -October 3, 2010

The series will lead with the popular local Sonoma County group the Hellhounds, who have been a staple in kicking off the concert series on 4th of July weekend since its inception.  A total of 13 bands will be featured throughout the summer and early fall, including returning favorites and fresh new acts. The full list of music acts can be found on the Events page of their website.