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Photo Credit: Ryan Wombacher

I’m overscheduled. This should be obvious to everyone who knows me, but for some reason, I seem to keep missing the memo.

“Hey Arianna, can you meet the winemaker for Pali Wine Company, Aaron Walker, at Delphine, at 6:30, after you get off work at 6:00, before your dinner with Dalla Terra importer Brian Larky, at Hatfield’s, at 7:30?”

“Oh sure. I don’t see why not.”

Because I live in a magical land where I can fly through the sky, up above streetlights and LA gridlock.

And because I have holes in my head.

I screeched into the valet in front of the W Hollywood Hotel, (late, of course), where Delphine – a chic French-Med bistro, in glimmering white tile and retro-cool accents – serves hotel guests, Hollywood pre-show diners, and – this evening – Aaron and his wife, Emily.

“I am so sorry,” I told them, a plea for forgiveness amid my tempest of chair sitting, purse-shifting, notebook finding, pen preparing and shoulder-slumping. They both smiled and assured me that they were happy as clams, munching on small plates of creamy/zesty hummus and warm pita, olives, and glasses of beer (what it takes to make great wine, dontcha know). Our waiter was beside the table in an instant, setting several glasses in front of me (God bless him).

Aaron has had kind of a whirlwind, too. He never intended to be a winemaker. He was on a different journey – studying early education, at San Diego State – when he was steered toward a deep appreciation for good food, by working in restaurants. He even considered a detour to culinary school. But in 2006 he found himself working the harvest at Bonaccorsi Wine Company – interning, in order to learn more about the business and the craft. Since then, he hasn’t looked back.

He joined Pali Wine Co. in 2007, as Assistant Winemaker under Brian Loring. The next year – 2008 – Walker took the helm. And all of this, without any formal winemaking education. He’s apprenticed with some impressive people: Joe Davis of Arcadian, Stephen Dooley of Stephen Ross Wine Cellars, Seth Kunin of Kunin Wines and Gray Hartley of Hitching Post; but most of Aaron’s training has been on the job, with a few extension classes here-and-there. Score one for drive and determination – the skills Aaron considers the cornerstones of his success.

I was there to taste Pali’s two newest endeavors, at two different price points. First, a value-priced Pinot out of Sonoma, the 2009 Pali Wine Co. “Riviera” Pinot Noir. The nose was full of cherry, mixed with a little herbaceousness. On the palate, the fruit-forward, cherry sweetness was braced with zesty acidity. It had a nice balance, a “user-friendly” medium body, and was quite smooth. At $19/bottle, it was $10 less than the next wine I tried: The 2010 Pali Wine Co. “Summit” Pinot Noir, Sta Rita Hills. This Pinot, with fruit from Fiddlestix and Rancho La Viña vineyards, had a bit more finesse. There was some minerality on the nose, a little cola, a lot of berry. There were flavors of blueberries, raspberries and a touch of chocolate. The finish had an irony metallic-ness. The “Summit” wines are made from fruit sourced from slightly more prestigious vineyards, while still maintaining a high quality-to-price ratio (QPR).

A few bites of hummus, an olive, a couple of anecdotes back-and-forth, and a deep breath, and I was on to the next thing. Aaron and Emily said they were going to hang out for a little longer to finish their drinks and enjoy the laid-back, swanky, vacation-feel of the restaurant, and would be back on the road soon. Headed in different directions – me, south; them, north – after pausing for a moment in each others’ company.

It’s a mad world. Thank goodness for the opportunities to stop and enjoy good wine with good people.

Photo Credit: Palm Beach Enterprise

I’ve been writing about Rioja a lot these days. Maybe that’s what inspired the good folks at Bodegas Montecillo to send me two bottles from their winery in Rioja Alta, Spain. I received a 2007 Montecillo Crianza ($12) and a 2003 Reserva ($18). I’m glad I did; these were great wines, and the QPR can’t be beat.

PS - Different Montecillo

The 2007 Montecillo Crianza, made from 100% Tempranillo, is aged in French oak (which is a bit unusual; most Spanish wines are aged in American wood), for twelve months. The remainder of its aging takes place in bottle. The 2007 had a nose of blueberry, blackberry and plum. Medium-bodied, with a smooth mouthfeel and nice balance, and flavors of tobacco, dark chocolate, blackberry and a bit of forest floor. If, in your shopping travels, you happen to stumble upon this one, at $12/bottle, there should really be no hesitation in picking it up.

Older and Wiser

The 2003 Montecillo Reserva – a step up from the Crianza but also made from 100% Tempranillo – is aged for 18 months in untoasted French barriques (again, a twist on traditional Spanish Rioja winemaking). I picked up aromas of tobacco, cigar, clove, allspice and blackberry; and flavors fresh, wet loam, blackberry, some tertiary components like forest floor, and even a bit of oregano. Although I sensed more heat on this than the Crianza, the overall presentation was smoother and richer, with a long, lingering finish. If you’re willing to part with a few extra dollars, this one is definitely worth the money, as well.

In fact, this review has made me a bit thirsty. Good thing the Bodegas Montecillo Riojas are pretty easy to find…

Wines of Substance

Being a founding member of a Seattle based wine group titled “Cork Dorks,” it should come as no surprise that I have fallen in love with a brand that talks nerdy to me.

Wines of Substance is a Washington winery stationed in the south sector of Walla Walla.  With branding based off of the periodic table and packaging that is geek sheik, this is surely a brand that all nerds, geeks and dweebs can get behind.

Beyond the alluring packaging and savvy branding concept, Substance makes some killer juice with a not-so-wallet-killing pricing structure, (whites range between $15 and $18 while reds range between $18 and $20).  With a dozen varietals to chose from, it would be easy for any wine lover to find something that they would surely enjoy.

Today’s pick is a two-for-one.  With the beginning of autumn, I would like to have one last hurrah for a summer favorite of mine: Sauvignon Blanc.  The Substance Sauvignon Blanc, (Sb) from years’ past have always been something that I have enjoyed, but I can honestly say that I was blown away with the 2010.  In the past, the Sb was very New Zealand-esque, but with the 2010, the crew from Substance clearly ripped a page from the book of Sancerre.  I love Sancerre style Sauvignon Blanc, so one can only imagine the excitement that came over me when I found something similar from my home state.  With stunning aromas of lemon zest, lemon grass and fresh cut grass, I couldn’t believe that this wasn’t Sancerre.  The flavors on the palate surely don’t disappoint either; fresh citrus, stone fruit, screaming acid and stoney minerality, the Substance Sb is definitely one of my favorite white wines from 2010.

Now, onto part two of our double feature.

Realizing that all good things must come to an end, I am embracing the autumn season with arms wide open.  When I think of early autumn wines, I think of red wines with great acidity that aren’t too heavy or over extracted.  Substance Counoise (Co), enter stage left.  I will admit that I love obscurity in most aspects of my life, and the same definitely stands true with wine.  Counoise is a grape that many may not be familiar with, so let’s have a quick little history lesson, (there may or may not be test at the end of this post, so be sure to pay close attention).

Counoise is a dark skinned grape grown primarily in the Rhône Valley region of France.  Although it is primarily used in blending to add notes of pepper and to bolster acidity, it can definitely make for a fun wine by itself.

The 2009 Co is a great example of what Counoise can do on its own.  Being harvested from the Forgotten Hills Vineyard within the Walla Walla AVA, one familiar with the site can expect some serious terroir funk.  Aromatically, this wine is expressive, inviting and bright.  Right away, you will smell bing cherry, peppercorn and wet cobblestone.  On the palate, the Co dances around beautifully with great acidity and flavors of cherry cola, iodine and white pepper.  This wine is definitely going to be different from much that you have had in the past, but it is well worth the exploration.

Fear not, there is no test.  However, I employ all of you to head to your nearest wine shop and ask about Wines of Substance.

Live long and prosper!

Soave, in the Veneto region of Italy

This summer, I’m all about the Italians.

I recently wrote a post about Gavi, that you may or may not have seen on Palate Press. In it, I asked readers to think about moving away from their more familiar Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs, to explore that other Old World wine-producing country (the one that isn’t known for Riesling and beer).

Now is a particularly good time to do it, too, especially if you’re ready to experiment with a wine called Soave. The 2009s are here, and it was one of the best vintages they’ve had in a long time.

Pra-bably one of the best Soaves on the market

Soave is a town in the Veneto region of Italy, in the province of Verona. The wine is named for the region, but it’s made of 70% – 100% Garganega grapes. When the wine is a blend, the remainder is often Trebbiano di Soave for the good ones, and Chardonnay and/or Trebbiano Toscano for the not-as-good ones. Traditionally, the wine is fermented in steel tanks, although it isn’t unheard of to use a bit of oak. Usually the wines are then aged for about two years before release (“Riserva”), although wines with less aging are also available.

The wine is known for its soft, fresh, waxy/floral/honey flavors, but due to overproduction and industrialization in the past decade or so, Soave developed a new reputation as jug wine plonk. The pendulum has since swung back the other way, however, and there are now a host of dedicated producers who are focused on bringing high quality, quaffable Soaves back to the market (helped, in part, by the Soave Consortium). In fact, volume andvalue of Soave were up by 20% in 2010 over 2009, and Mario Batali’s New York eatery, Eataly, hosted “Soave Month” the entire month of May 2011. So clearly the situation is well on its way to being righted.

Soave, without the Ricco

The Soave Consortium recently sent me a few bottles of Soave: 2009 Re Midas Cantina di Soave and 2009 Fattori Runcaris Soave Classico (both about $12). Knowing these were value-priced bottles, I decided to taste them against two pricier wines to see how they’d stand-up. For those wines,  I chose 2009 Gini Soave Classico ($15) and 2007 Pra Staforte Soave Classico ($20).

2009 Re Midas Cantina di Soave: The Re Midas was very promising at first, with its nose of green apple, pear, honey and grass. On the palate, there was beautiful acid, with flavors of peach, apple and pear. I even wrote in my notes that it, “Tastes like a summer afternoon.” But despite the great attack, it sort of fell apart on the finish. Not bad by any means, but it was my least favorite in the line-up. (100% Garganega)

2009 Fattori Runcaris Soave Classico:  Even before my nose came near the glass, I could smell big fruit carried on a hot tradewind from the land of Alcoholia. Apple, apple and more apple with a bit of dried honey. Surprisingly, it wasn’t as hot on the palate as I expected; there was great acid and some tropical notes – especially pineapple – skimming around the edges. My second favorite of the group. (100% Garganega)

2007 Pra Staforte Soave Classico: This wine was absolutely delicious. Honey and honeyed fruits on the nose and in the mouth. Notes of crisp Fiji apple and Asian pear. Bright acidity (very bright), that kept going and going and going on the finish. This was my favorite of the day. (100% Garganega)

2009 Gini Soave Classico: The Gini tied for second place with the Fattori. Out of the gate, it was all oak. The oakiness is apparent on the nose and contributes to a caramel apple finish; in-between, there is honey, delivered in a soft-bodied wine with a creamy, smooth texture. (100% Garganega)

Whether you hunt down one of these or try another of the other delicious choices on the market (look for the 2009s – for serious), Soave is a super choice for summer sipping.

The Line Up

Soledad, California was founded as a Spanish mission in 1791. It’s the backdrop of John Steinbeck’s 1937 novel,  Of Mice and Men. It’s also the home of Soledad State Correctional Facility – a large prison filled with scary criminals.

Big House Wines – also in Soledad – is named for that jail.

Not that there is anything criminal about the wines except, perhaps, for how good they are at such a low price point. At a recent lunch with winemaker Georgetta Dane, she was coy about how she can keep the cost of her bottles beneath $10; but having a mixture of estate fruit and great relationships with other growers certainly helps.

When I was invited to meet Ms. Dane and sample her wines, I admit I was skeptical. Monterey has come a long way in terms of wine production, but it can still be very hit or miss. The Big House wines are downright cheap, and the entire line-up shares a gimmicky convict-inspired theme. But meeting Georgetta was the first step in changing my mind. The Suceava, Romania native is smart – she majored in food science in school, but clearly packs a satchel of street smarts.

Georgetta approaches winemaking with a sense of adventure not unlike the original Big House warden, Randall Grahm (he sold the winery in 2006). She utilizes a blending philosophy taken from perfumers (layering aromatics), and a willingness to blend more obscure varieties (11 grapes, including Malvasia Blanca, Gruner Veltliner, Muscat Canelli and Verdelho in the Big House White; and up to 20 varieties in the Big House Red, including Montepulciano, Nero d’Avola, Aglianico, Souzao, Charbono and Tannat). Even the packaging of the wines is creative in a way that totally works: Big House has been making their own boxed wine for two years, and at $20 for 3-liter “Octavin,” it really is the best deal in town.

But how do they taste? As I mentioned before, they’re good. As it turns out, the fruit is not solely from Monterey. Some of the grapes for the “Unchained”/”Naked” (unoaked Chardonnay), for example, come from Paso Robles. The grapes for the “Cardinal Zin” are from old vines, tended by a third generation Italian wine-making family. Personally, my favorites from the line-up are the Big House White, the Big House Red and the Cardinal Zin.

So, if you’re looking for a solid table wine you can drink on the regular without robbing a bank to support your habit, turn yourself over to the Big House.

Two Rhones Make a Right

Being a resident of Washington state, I have the opportunity to try some of the best wines that the state has to offer.  One winery that I am super excited about right now is Syncline Winery.  Syncline, (a trough of stratified rock in which the beds dip toward each other from either side) embodies it’s name.  Located in Lyle, Washington, (Columbia Gorge AVA), Winemaker James Mantone was inspired by what other Washington winemakers had done with traditional Rhone and Burgundian varietals.  Having worked at LaVelle Vineyards prior to starting Syncline, James had a soft spot for Pinot Noir, thus the first vintage of Syncline was a small production of Pinot Noir from Celilo Vineyard.  After expanding production the following year to include Grenache and Syrah, James began working with vineyards to plant Viognier, Mourvedre, Roussanne, Cinsault, Counoise and Carignan.

James’ love and curiosity for Rhone varietals has come full circle.  One wine that I really enjoy is his Subduction Red.  Subduction is a blend of Mourvedre (39%), Counoise (19%), Syrah (17%), Grenache (16%), Cinsault (6%) and Carignan (3%).  This is a lot of wine for it’s price ($18).  Subduction red has a beautiful, dark ruby color at the core with light purple hues around the edge.  The aromas of this wine are great: boysenberry, blackberry, toasted hazelnut, slight gaminess and a hint of birch.  For a wine to have this many different varietals, it’s easy to balance or structure, but this is not the case with the Subduction.  The palate has an initial burst of ripe red raspberries and black cherries with nice, stoney acidity.  The mid palate is soft and opens up to flavors of plum, white cocoa, cotton candy and bit of white pepper.  The wine has nice structure with good acidity and velvety tannins, most of which come from the French oak barrels that the wine is aged in.  The finish lasts for days, again with supple tannins, plum and ripe raspberry.

In a market where the average price for a bottle of wine is $32, the Syncline Subduction Red is a great wine from Washington state that fits within any budget.  Definitely check it out as well as some of James’ other wines; you won’t be disappointed!             – Chip McLaughlin

Venture up this creek

And for the price – approximately $12/bottle – imbibers get a great table wine at a great value.

A Collaboration

If you happen to live in Southern California, and you find yourself in a Whole Foods, you have an opportunity to purchase wine as part of an effort to celebrate a partnership between Whole Foods Market and Santa Barbara County wineries. My assumption, though it’s not called out anywhere, is that this is a “Buy local” program.

The project is called “A Collaboration” and is currently a partnership between Whole Foods and (at press time) two well-known wineries: Margerum Wines and Hitching Post Wines. The first wine, from Margerum, was available on September 30th and I acquired a bottle for free through a P.R. firm representing the effort (I have to tell you that, but I would have anyway).

The 2009 A Collaboration with Margerum label contains backstory which is remarkably similar to Margerum’s well-known M5 (and even goes so far as to say M5 Red Wine right on the label):

Five Grapes ~ Six Vineyards ~ One Wine
51% Syrah (53% Colson Canyon Vineyard clone 877, 37% Great Oak Ranch Vineyard and 10% Purisima Mountain Vineyard that was pulled from a new Francoise Freres barrel), 32% Grenache (58% Alamo Creek Vineyard and 42% Grundoon Vineyards), 11% Mourvedre from Camp Four Vineyard, 3% Counoise from Camp Four Vineyard and 3% Cinsault from Camp Four Vineyard.

For me, this wine has amazing “bones” but seems to be lacking in a serious case of “living up to its potential.” Then again, I kinda felt that way about M5, too. As a general rule, I favor fruitier red wines to minerally red wines, and am especially not enamored with Napa Cabernets because of that dusty, chalky thing everyone loves so much. To me, the Margerum wines seem to be reaching for Napa (and falling short) instead of embracing what makes wine from Santa Barbara County and the rest of the Central Coast so unique and enjoyable… the fruit. I consider the other wines coming out of these vineyards, made from the same grapes (Tensley, Qupe, Tercero, Epiphany, and Beckmen come to mind), and I’m disappointed in the lack of body, the lack of anything interesting happening on my mid-palate, and the short finish.

The Hitching Post collaboration is a completely different animal. All of the things that we love about Santa Ynez wine and winemaking are typified in this bottle of wine and it was an exciting bottle to drink. The label is chock-full of information (yay!) to help the consumer get a better sense of what’s special about this wine:

This collaboration celebrates:
A Place – Terravant Wine Company in Buellton, CA, where Gray Hartley and Frank Ostini of Hitching Post Wines are writing the next chapter.
A Story – of making wine since 1979, in a garage, a shed, a co-op, and now this ultra-modern winery. From humble beginnings to high tech, Hartley Ostini continues to created traditional wines of balance and finesse.
The Fruits – This is a 22 barrel selection blended and handcrafted by Gray Hartley and Frank Ostini, and includes 73% Valdiguie grown by Hank Ashby at French Camp Vineyard near Shandon, and 27% Syrah grown by Loren Colahan at Alisos Vineyard in the hills above Los Alamos.

My husband says to me, “What’s Valdiguie?” My reply? “I think it’s an Italian varietal.” Yeah, um, notsomuch. It’s actually a French varietal from the Languedoc-Roussillon region in Provence. When we opened the bottle, poured the glasses, and took a deep analytical inhalation, we were impressed with the textured, deep fruity aroma. What surprised and impressed us even more was the less-fruity palate as well as the incredible balance and structure of this wine. We like many Hitching Post wines, but for me, this is one of their finest “collaborations.”

The Hitching Post collaboration will be available on November 1st at a Whole Foods near you (in Southern California) for the VERY low introductory price of $12.99 (will go up to $14.99 after December). This is a wine to stock up on if you can as it will make your wintry evenings ohsomuch better.

Hi there! Remember me? This summer was beyond the pale with too many balls in the air but I’m back! Since blogging had been set aside for a while, so had drinking all of the lovely wines I’d received over the last several months. I’ve been slowly working my way through the several cases of wine that had built up, with the help of my friends, and now I want to share with you what I’ve tasted and recommend (and what I don’t recommend). Enjoy!

Recommended Wines Under $15 – Courtesy of Gourmet Monthly Wine Clubs (Masters Series)

• Stefano Massone Vigneto Masera Gavi 2008 – Italy – $10-12 per bottle (No longer available for reorder at Gourmet Monthly)
• Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2006 – France – $8-11 per bottle (No longer available for reorder at Gourmet Monthly)
• FAVORITE! Nine Vines South Australia Viognier 2008 – Australia – $11-12 per bottle (No longer available for reorder at Gourmet Monthly)

Recommended Wines Under $20 – Courtesy of Gold Medal Wine Club (Gold Series)

• Three Saints Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 – Santa Ynez – (Release price: $23, Published price: $19, Member price: $17)
• Adobe Road Winery Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 – (Release price: $45, Published price: $29, Member price: $20)
• Adobe Road Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2007 – Already sold out at Gold Medal Wine Club (it was delicious), $15-20 per bottle

More Recommended Wines – Courtesy of Zagat Wine Club and Barclay’s Wine Experience

• Le Petit Pauvre Chardonnay 2007 – Monterey County, California – $17 per bottle
• Granite Ridge Chenin Blanc 2009 – Stellenbosch, South Africa – $12.95 per bottle
• Ines de Monclus White 2009 – Andalusia, Spain – $12.95 per bottle

Some Not-So-Recommended Wines

• Home Grown Farms Family Harvest Red 2008 (California)
• Rosenthal The Malibu Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
• Monasterio de Santa Cruz 2007 (Monastrell from Tarragona)
• Chateau les Tuileries 2009 (Bordeaux)
• Carolena Merlot 2007 (California)

In case you didn’t know, I also review wine clubs. We comb through retail wines to make wine club recommendations and soon we’ll have new ways for you to find the perfect wine club for you or as a gift!

Cheers!