Inclined to Syncline: Rhone Varietals From Washington

Two Rhones Make a Right

Two Rhones Make a Right

Being a resident of Washington state, I have the opportunity to try some of the best wines that the state has to offer. One winery that I am super excited about right now is Syncline Winery. Syncline, (a trough of stratified rock in which the beds dip toward each other from either side) embodies it’s name. Located in Lyle, Washington, (Columbia Gorge AVA), Winemaker James Mantone was inspired by what other Washington winemakers had done with traditional Rhone and Burgundian varietals. Having worked at LaVelle Vineyards prior to starting Syncline, James had a soft spot for Pinot Noir, thus the first vintage of Syncline was a small production of Pinot Noir from Celilo Vineyard. After expanding production the following year to include Grenache and Syrah, James began working with vineyards to plant Viognier, Mourvedre, Roussanne, Cinsault, Counoise and Carignan.

James’ love and curiosity for Rhone varietals has come full circle. One wine that I really enjoy is his Subduction Red. Subduction is a blend of Mourvedre (39%), Counoise (19%), Syrah (17%), Grenache (16%), Cinsault (6%) and Carignan (3%). This is a lot of wine for it’s price ($18). Subduction red has a beautiful, dark ruby color at the core with light purple hues around the edge. The aromas of this wine are great: boysenberry, blackberry, toasted hazelnut, slight gaminess and a hint of birch. For a wine to have this many different varietals, it’s easy to balance or structure, but this is not the case with the Subduction. The palate has an initial burst of ripe red raspberries and black cherries with nice, stoney acidity. The mid palate is soft and opens up to flavors of plum, white cocoa, cotton candy and bit of white pepper. The wine has nice structure with good acidity and velvety tannins, most of which come from the French oak barrels that the wine is aged in. The finish lasts for days, again with supple tannins, plum and ripe raspberry.

In a market where the average price for a bottle of wine is $32, the Syncline Subduction Red is a great wine from Washington state that fits within any budget. Definitely check it out as well as some of James’ other wines; you won’t be disappointed! – Chip McLaughlin

syncline family

Two Rhones Make a RightBeing a resident of Washington state, I have the opportunity to try some of the best wines that the state has to offer. One winery that I am super excited about right now is Syncline Winery. Syncline, (a trough of stratified rock in which the beds dip toward each other from either side) embodies it’s name. Located in Lyle, Washington, (Columbia Gorge AVA), Winemaker James Mantone was inspired by what other Washington winemakers had done with traditional Rhone and Burgundian varietals. Having worked at LaVelle Vineyards prior to starting Syncline, James had a soft spot for Pinot Noir, thus the first vintage of Syncline was a small production of Pinot Noir from Celilo Vineyard. After expanding production the following year to include Grenache and Syrah, James began working with vineyards to plant Viognier, Mourvedre, Roussanne, Cinsault, Counoise and Carignan.

James’ love and curiosity for Rhone varietals has come full circle. One wine that I really enjoy is his Subduction Red. Subduction is a blend of Mourvedre (39%), Counoise (19%), Syrah (17%), Grenache (16%), Cinsault (6%) and Carignan (3%). This is a lot of wine for it’s price ($18). Subduction red has a beautiful, dark ruby color at the core with light purple hues around
the edge. The aromas of this wine are great: boysenberry, blackberry, toasted hazelnut, slight gaminess and a hint of birch. For a wine to have this many different varietals, it’s easy to balance or structure, but this is not the case with the Subduction. The palate has an initial burst of ripe red raspberries and black cherries with nice, stoney acidity. The mid palate is soft and opens up to flavors of plum, white cocoa, cotton candy and bit of white pepper. The wine has nice structure with good acidity and velvety tannins, most of which come from the French oak barrels that the wine is aged in. The finish lasts for days, again with supple tannins, plum and ripe raspberry.
In a market where the average price for a bottle of wine is $32, the Syncline Subduction Red is a great wine from Washington state that fits within any budget. Definitely check it out as well as some of James’ other wines; you won’t be disappointed! – Chip McLaughlin

Hot Wine Deal! 2007 J Vineyards & Winery Chardonnay Russian River Valley

My wine cellar is full and I'm currently on a wine-buying furlough or I'd snap up this deal myself! I'm a HUGE Russian River Valley fan, especially Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and J Vineyards is an excellent winery.

Release price is $28.00/bottle! Get it for just $18.99/bottle or $15.99 per bottle if you buy 12 or more!

Tasting Notes from Wine Access:

“Pale green color. Bright aromas of apple and citrus, a touch of wood. Rich and firm on the palate, with a tight kernel of honeyed fruit, bracketed by brisk Russian River acidity. Excellent weight, and fine persistence, speaking of the vineyard pedigree and that great Indian summer hang time of 2007. Drink now for its refreshing vibrancy or age for up to 4 years.”

Check it out at WineAccess or read on…

Wine information from J Vineyards & Winery:

The vineyards
The grapes for this Chardonnay come from our estate vineyards in the Russian River Valley, as well as from select premium vineyard sites in the western region of the Russian River Valley.

Processing
Whole grape clusters were hand-harvested between 23 and 24 brix, and then pressed gently in our Coquard press to minimize the extraction of harsh components from the skins of the grapes; free-run and press fraction juices were fermented separately using a combination of indigenous and unique custom yeast strains from Burgundy. Long fermentations allowed the wine to develop slowly, maximizing its expression of terroir. Careful blending of more than 30 lots resulted in a beautiful expression of Chardonnay that is both powerful and refined and true to the Russian River Valley.

Aging
For this wine, the winery went to great lengths in finding unique French oak coopers selected from specific forests. The wine is 100% barrel-fermented and aged in 60-gallon Burgundian oak (40% new). A long, six-month malolactic fermentation was carried out resulting in automatic batonage, which produced exceptional sur lie character, as well as complex, layered aromas and flavors. A year of rest after bottling created a fully integrated and beautifully resolved wine that honors the traditions of Burgundy and is a true testament to the terroir of Russian River Valley.

Tasting Notes
The 2007 J Vineyards Chardonnay is a sublime combination of old world minimalist technique and new world fruit expression. The senses are aroused by scents of Meyer lemon, peach, vanilla, toasted almond and honey. The weighty, seamless palate has a creamy texture reminiscent of crème brûlée. A long luxurious finish exhibits hints of caramel, nutmeg and cinnamon.

Winemaker: George Bursick
Appellation: Russian River Valley
Harvest Date: September 4 – October 8, 2007
Wine Alcohol: 14.3% by volume
Wine Acid: 5.90 grams per liter
Wine pH: 3.55
Production: 5,700 cases
Bottling Date: August 2008
Release Date: September 2009

A Really Rough Guide To Budget Bordeaux

wine tastingSeveral weeks ago, I had the exquisite pleasure of attending the 2007 Union des Grand Cru des Bordeaux tasting in Los Angeles. For those who don’t speak French, “Union des Grand Cru des Bordeaux” translates, roughly, as “The Incredibly Fancy Wines From the French Region of Bordeaux. You Can’t Afford Them. Don’t Even Bother.” Look it up.

There were over one hundred wineries pouring at the event. Representatives stood behind low tables covered in white tablecloths, ice buckets, bottles and business cards. In the center of one portion of the cavernous conference room were lovely banquets of fresh fruit, colorful cheeses and a variety of crackers to absorb a bit of the booze. Separate tables supported shiny silver spittoons. Guests in subdued attire slowly wandered from table to table, shmoozing, sipping, smiling, spitting.

The room was divided according to the regions of Bordeaux:

Graves (Pessac-Leognan, Sauternes and Barsac); Medoc (Saint Emilion, Pomerol, Listrac-Medoc, Moulis-en-Medoc,

Bordeaux AOC

Bordeaux AOC

Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Saint-Estephe). For the purposes of this piece, I will not go into the history and importance of Bordeaux, because I cannot do the proper justice which many an expert has already done on the region, and I could not begin to match the authority of these historians.

I’ll simply provide some broad stokes.

Red Bordeaux (called Claret, in the UK), is the most widely produced wine type in this region (outnumbering white wine by about 10 to 1), and is generally made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. To round out the “Fab Five” of Bordeaux, Petit Verdot and Malbec are also permitted, although these are blended in less

frequently. While Carmenere is also authorized, this varietal is now difficult – if not impossible – to find in the area, since replanting never quite took hold after the Phylloxera epidemic of 1867.

As a very broad generalization, Cabernet Sauvignon (Bordeaux’s second-most planted grape variety) dominates the blend in red wines produced in the Médoc and the rest of the left bank of the Gironde estuary. Typical top-quality Chateaux blends are 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 15% Merlot. This is typically referred to as the “Bordeaux Blend.” Merlot (Bordeaux’s most-planted grape variety) and to a lesser extent Cabernet Franc (third most planted variety) tend to predominate in Saint Emilion, Pomerol and the other right bank appellations. These Right Bank blends from top-quality Chateaux are typically 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc & 15% Cabernet Sauvignon (Oz Clarke Encyclopedia of Grapes p. 129 Harcourt Books 2001 ISBN 0151007144)

Second in production is white Bordeaux, which is grown only in Graves and is mostly (exclusively, in the case of the sweet Sauternes), made from Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes, with neither varietal making up more than ninety percent of the blend. Typical blends are usually 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. Muscadelle is sometimes included, as well, to round out the flavor of the wine, although rarely – if ever – playing a predominant role. On occasion, one can find small amounts of Colombard and Ugni Blanc mixed in, as well.

For me, the greatest thing about the Union des Grand Cru des Bordeaux tasting was the discovery of amazing Bordeaux whites – specifically from the Pessac-Leognan region. Each region in Bordeaux has its own terrior and as a result, the flavor profile of each wine differs noticeably from one parish to another. While I found most of the Bordeaux Blanc to be pretty special, it was the Pessac-Leognan whites that really took my breath away: Pure peachy-grapefruit refreshment. Silky smooth. Perfectly balanced (I mean perfectly). I cannot overstate how enamored I am of these velvety wines.

But while far, far below the sky-high prices of their darker brethren, bottles of white Bordeaux do not come cheap. What’s a value-minded vino-holic to do?

Luckily, there are several options:

  1. Don’t buy Grand Cru: Right after the Bordeaux tasting, I dove into research and trips to local wine shops, trying to recreate the magic of what I had sampled in that large conference room – minus the hefty price tag.
    Chateau Loudenne Blanc

    Chateau Loudenne Blanc

    What I eventually found was a 2006 Chateau Loudenne. While not from one of the premier Chateaux, this wine is so incredibly delicious that the sommelier at a recent celebratory dinner stopped to comment on our choice to bring it to the restaurant. He did this several times. And then helped himself to a small pour. With a nose of sweet almonds and a soft, velvety mouthfeel rich with grapefruit and lanolin, who needs to spend Grand Cru prices to experience a similar level of deliciousness? Especially when this beautiful bottle cost me only $20. Maybe $21. Let me say that one more time: Even the sommelier at a restaurant with 2 Michelin Stars stopped to praise this “value” wine. It really was remarkable, especially when you consider that bottles from up the road in this region run $80+. I can’t recommend the Chateau Loudenne more highly, but there are plenty of incredible Bordeaux wines out there that are selling for a comparative song, simply because they lack that coveted First, Second or Third Growth status. But if “Cru” matters to you, remember that there is a significant price difference between First and Second Growth (Premiers or 1er and Seconds or Deuxiemes Cru Classe), Second and Third Growth (Troisiemes), Third and Fourth Growth (Quatriemes), and Fourth and Fifth Growth (Cinquiemes). The cost plummets even more precipitously when you go from Fifth Growth down to Cru Bourgeois – which is the class from which the Loudenne comes – although the Cru Bourgeois designation was officially done away with in 2007. Any value vinophile worth his or her salt should simply find the wines classified Cru Bourgeois before ’07 and hunt these bad boys down*. You know you’ll be getting an absolutely incredible value for the money. But one shouldn’t place too much emphasis on growth classification; just because a wine is Second, Third, Fourth, Bourgeois, etc., does not mean it’s far inferior to Premier – especially as the quality of some of the First and Second Growths waxes and wanes over the years.

  2. Don’t buy chateau-bottled Bordeaux: While there is very concentrated hoopla over several important Chateaux in the region, wine making in Bordeaux is not confined merely to grand properties where they grow and ferment their own. Like almost everywhere else in the world, Bordeaux also produces wines blended from several different properties – sometimes even the fancy ones – although you’d be hard-pressed to find this information on the label. This practice is actually borne of the age-old négociant (“merchant”) system – identical to the system that produces Cameron Hughes and Layer Cake Wines in the US. Winemakers source what they feel is some of the best fruit in the area and mix it to create their own special blend.
  3. Don’t buy “Bordeaux”: Instead, opt for the lesser-known appellations in the region, which are producing solid stuff at a fraction of what the classic parishes pull in. Look for appellations like Premières Côtes de Blaye, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, Côtes de Francs, Côtes de Castillon, Cadillac, Côtes de Bourg, Fronsac and Montagne-St-Emilion. These are some of the “new” appellations, but they are all within the Bordeaux AOC. For potentially even bigger bargains, look for “Bordeaux blends” in regions entirely outside of Bordeaux – Like Loire, for example. Wines produced in other AOCs will not taste the same as the identical blend from Bordeaux, but there will be a similar and recognizable flavor profile you might really enjoy.
  4. Meet Meritage: The blends that produce Meritage are the classic Bordeaux mixtures, in varying proportions – made in America.

    meritage_assoc

    The Meritage Association

From the website:

Meritage wines are provocative red or white wines crafted solely from specific “noble” Bordeaux grape varieties and are considered to be the very best wines of the vintage.

Meritage, pronounced like heritage, first appeared in the late 1980s after a group of American vintners joined forces to create a name for New World wines blended in the tradition of Bordeaux. The word was selected from more than 6,000 entries in an international contest. Meritage combines “merit,” reflecting the quality of the grapes, with “heritage,” which recognizes the centuries-old tradition of blending, long considered to be the highest form of the winemaker’s art.

While many bottles may contain the Bordeaux blend, only those that belong to the Meritage Alliance can use the name on the label. The Good: It’s generally really good wine at non-Bordeaux prices (although this doesn’t mean they’re necessarily value priced). The Bad: It isn’t true Bordeaux.

One final note: Good wine – whether it’s from Bordeaux or anywhere else in the world – is the wine that tastes good to you. I’ve spoken to several industry veterans who have had the good fortune of experiencing several of the most renowned and celebrated wines on the planet. In each case, these experts remembered some of the wines as being perfect and lovely and delicious and incredible…and some of them tasting like…well…crap. Undrinkable. They poured their – otherwise perfect – glasses down the sink. I spoke to one man who said he went to a special winery dinner where, unbeknown to the head sommelier, they switched the bottle of the 3- or 4-figure wine of the evening with a bottle of Charles Shaw. The sommelier’s reaction was tepid: He thought it was a pretty decent bottle of Two-Buck Chuck and that the “exceptional” wine was quite a disappointment.

My point is this: Bordeaux is known for producing some truly special wines – for people who like to drink Bordeaux. There are no points given for paying top dollar for something you don’t want to drink. A region or a designation only makes the wine better in the way that a designer label improves a pair of jeans: Perhaps it’s an indication of quality or a certain cut or style, but there are a lot of other factors that determine the right fit.

Have fun, try a bunch of stuff, and buy what suits you. Maybe that’s Chateau Lafite-Rothchild, or maybe it’s something with a pretty label and a small price tag you buy from Trader Joe’s. In the end, you are your own expert, and only you can determine what you like to drink and how much you’re willing to pay for it.

* Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels:

Exceptional AND value-priced, too

Exceptional AND value-priced, too

Château Chasse-Spleen (Moulis-en-Médoc, Moulis-en-Médoc)

Château Haut-Marbuzet (Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château Labegorce Zédé (Soussans, Margaux)
Château Ormes-de-Pez (Les) (Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château Pez (de) (Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château Phélan Ségur (Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château Potensac (Ordonnac, Médoc)
Château Poujeaux (Moulis-en-Médoc, Moulis-en-Médoc)
Château Siran (Labarde, Margaux)

Director’s Cut Wines from Coppola

Fun wine label makes for a great gift

Fun wine label makes for a great gift

The Daily Sip, the email newsletter from Bottlenotes, did a piece on Director's Cut wines today. It reminded me that I like these wines, too and haven't had one a while. I found them to be a good value under $20, especially the Cabernet Sauvignon (which is an Alexander Valley Cab and probably explains why I like it). I also like giving this wine as a gift because of the fun and unique label.

I'm excited to see they've come out with some new varietals, including Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, and Chardonnay, all of which will be on my “must try” list.

If you can't wait for me to drink it and review it, here are some stores selling it online. I believe I purchased it at Cost Plus World Market, so if you've got one near you, might be worth taking a look.